Common Training Questions
What do I do when my new puppy pulls when we go for a walk down the street?
I will often use a 10-15’ line on my brand new baby puppies, but honestly I don’t start taking my new puppies for a ‘walk’ down the street until they are 5-6 months old and have a clue about leash walking. The first several months are more like puppy exploration time, and typically happen in the yard or a field or on the trails. I follow the puppy around, making sure to keep the leash loose at all times (hence the 10-15 footer) and if and when the puppy finds its way to my left side I mark it (with at click or a yes) and reinforce it with a very high value treat! In addition, every time the dog hits the end of the line, I stop and act like a tree! In this way the puppy learns pulling on the leash does NOT get them to go forward, but when they are next to you they get fed! Also, several times a day, I will take the puppy out for ‘leash training time’ which is 2-3 minute of walking up and down the driveway in a fashion similar to what we practice in class, with lots of reinforcement for being next to me on my left side.
Be sure to read the Leash Walking section of the training manual and look at the videos on the Puppy Kindergarten Videos tab on my web site.
The leash training videos are on the Week 1 videos (Leash training part 1) and Week 2 videos (Leash Walking part 2), as well as the 3 Steps forward 3 Steps Back video in Week 2 and 3.
The goal for Puppy K is to be able to teach the dog that pulling on leash does NOT make them go forward and to have your dog be able to stay with you for 10-15 feet at a time, anything beyond that is generally beyond their capability at this age.
We do work extensively on leash walking in Graduate Puppy class as well as the next level of recall, stay, leave it and several other behaviors.
My puppy is always biting my hands, arms and ankles!
Yes, this mouthy, biting, even ‘attacking’ behavior is quite normal for most puppies. It is usually a way to initiate play. Puppies play with their mouths, and typically learn bite inhibition while playing with other puppies. When they bite other puppies too hard the other puppy typically disengages with the attacker and walks away.
Things not to do:
-Don’t hit your puppy - anger and punishment (particularly physical punishment) tends to make the puppy more aroused and use more force, not less. Or it makes the puppy totally afraid or you and that’s a behavior that can lead to aggression later in life.
-Don’t hold their mouth shut - they are doing something natural and holding their mouth shut will only increase the dog’s arousal level and/or fear (see second comment above)
-Don’t scold your puppy - they are just trying to play.
-Don’t Yell OUCH! - this makes for a great game as it tends to increase the puppies arousal level and will increase, not decrease the attack.
What TO do:
- Use Crates, Gates and Tethers to separate the puppy from you when he is in this mode. All of these will prevent the biting behavior, but you ALSO need to provide something yummy and long lasting to chew on so the puppy doesn’t get frustrated. Bully Sticks, Nyla Bones, Kong toys that are stuffed with canned dog food and FROZEN so they last a long time are good places to start. Note: these toys should not be out all the time, reserve these for those times when you need them!
- Leave a leash on when the puppy is out and about so that if an ‘attack’ happens you can quickly corral the puppy without touching him and secure him (using the leash) to something sturdy (like a doorknob or under a heavy piece of furniture) and then walk away, you can at this point provide him with something appropriate to chew on, as mentioned above. In a bit when he has settled down you can return to him (do NOT take him off the tether) and sit down with him to see if he’s settled enough to come off the tether. If he is REINFORCE him with yummy treats for being calm and without fanfare release him. If he starts to ramp up again, simply say 'Uh Oh' and walk away calmly out of his reach.
- It is better to be proactive than reactive so if this is happening at predictable times (usually first thing in the morning or in the evening) either put him in the crate during this period or tether him so people can stay out of his reach. Give him something good to chew on while he’s there, of feed him using a food search toy (see my recommended products on the Local resources page (under the More menu heading).
The key is to prevent the behavior (using crates, gates and tethers) so the puppy doesn’t have an opportunity to practice it! At the same time, when the puppy is calm and has all four feet on the floor, you can reinforce that behavior by saying ‘Yes’ and following that up with a yummy morsel.
Think about what’s happening just before she gets into bitey mode. Is it when you are playing with her, is it often at the same time every day, is it when you are trying to pet/cuddle with her, is it when you touch her in a particular area of her body like on the top of her head, or her flanks? If we can predict when the biting is likely to happen we can take steps to prevent it. Also, sometimes, our interactions with our puppies causes them to be over stimulated which triggers bitey episodes. It is not uncommon for bitey episodes to occur more often first thing in the morning or between 4-6pm. In cases where we can predict when these episodes are more likely to occur, I recommend you take preventive action, like tethering the puppy BEFORE she gets too stimulated, so you can easily walk away from the interaction, or put the pup in a crate with a long lasting, high value chew toy (frozen stuffed Kong, bully stick, nylabone) to keep her busy during the ‘grey’ hours so she can’t engage in bitey behaviors to begin with.
As long as we prevent or interrupt the behavior quickly with little fanfare, so as to prevent a habit, these bitey episodes generally decrease with age. If your dog is already older and has already developed a habit of being mouthy, it needs to be prevented/interrupted asap, so the dog understands this behavior does NOT get them attention.
Finally, once the dog has a fluent set of behaviors (like sit, down, go to mat, etc), we can begin asking for a trained behavior when she gets overly mouthy. Giving her something positive TO do instead of doing the behavior you don’t want is often the best way to prevent the undesirable behavior.
I would also recommend you watch the video on Puppy Nipping and Biting under the Canine Confidential tab on my web site. There is also a Blog entry entitled 'The shark in my kitchen/the kangaroo at my door!’, which you can find easily if you go to the blog page and search for shark.
What are the best treats to use during training?
I like to use as low a value 'treat' as I can get away with. Since we are typically working with young puppies in non-distracting areas, and they are growing so quickly they are almost always hungry, their regular kibble usually works pretty well. Sometimes I will use higher value kibble as treats, or coat the Puppy's kibble with something yummy, so I know that everything going in is 100% nutritionally complete.
The key is to make sure you are not overloading the dog with too much food, so remember if you adjust the quantity of kibble you put in your puppy's bowl if you are planning to do a big training session anytime before or after meal time.
Here are some of the dog ’treats’ I like to use when I have to
- Ziwi Peak dog food (Mackeral Flavor)
- Vital Essentials freeze dried mini nibs (duck, beef, turkey) I use the food (100% nutritional complete) as opposed to the treats.
- Nom Nom treats (very high value - you probably won’t need those until Grad Puppy)
- anything that the dog really likes, smooshed into a cup of their kibble like; small amount of hot dog, small amount of liverwurst, small amount of peanut butter/other nut butters. The idea is to make their kibble just a bit tastier than normal, by coating the pieces you can feed their entire meal during class and not overload their belly!